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Power Panels

Mini Project Mounting Terminal Block

In this project, you will replace the shaky three-way alligator clip connection from the previous lesson with a more stable version that uses a terminal block.

Replace Alligator Clips with Terminal Block
Replace Alligator Clips with Terminal Block
Mounting Terminal Block: Required items and tools

To begin mounting a terminal block, you will need the following:

  • Terminal Block Terminal Block
  • Nuts and Bolts Nuts and Bolts
  • Phillips #2 Screwdriver Phillips #2 Screwdriver
  • 16 AWG Wire 16 AWG Wire
  • Spade Connectors Spade Connectors
  • Alligator Clip Alligator Clip
  • Alligator Clip Crimper Alligator Clip Crimper
  • Wire Stripper Wire Stripper
  • Electrical Tape Electrical Tape
  • Multimeter Multimeter
Use Sketch from Shared Voltage Nodes

Start with the circuit from Mini-Project: Shared Voltage Nodes. The wires shown in blue are the ones that you will be replacing in this mini-project.

TIP: If you're manually rebuilding this circuit, you can skip the blue wires because they're about to be replaced.

Build New Wires

For this project, you will need to construct a different type of wire.

One wire with a spade connector and loose end (to be taped to the battery)
Two wires with a spade connector and an alligator clip

Use the modules below if you need a refresher on attaching these connectors.

How To: Prepare Alligator Clips

Follow along with this module to prepare wires with alligator clips

Alligator Clip Connector: Required items and tools

To begin crimping clips, you will need the following:

  • Alligator Clip Alligator Clip
  • Wire Wire
  • Alligator Clip Crimper Alligator Clip Crimper
  • Wire Stripper Wire Stripper
Step 1: Prepare wire for alligator clip

Take the end of the wire, and make sure there is enough conductor exposed to attach the connector -- about 1 cm, or half an inch is good for this type of clip.

  • If you need to expose more conductor, use a wire cutter.
  • If you have a wire cutter with gauge holes, find the hole that matches the size of wire you have, place the wire through the hole, and squeeze the handle firmly. Twist the wire back and forth until the insulator is cut, and the conductor slides out smoothly.
  • If you have a wire cutter without gauge holes, place the cutting head where you want to trim to, and cut "around" the outside by squeezing the blade down gently on the outside of the insulator, and rotating the blade and wire back and forth to saw through the insulation without damaging the conductor inside.
  • If you have too much conductor, use a wire cutter to cut off the excess length.
Step 2: Insert conductive core into alligator clip

Insert the exposed conductor through the small loop on the back of the alligator clip.

Note: If the connection is too loose, strip off some more of the insulator and fold the conductor together to create an extra "thick" wire for the alligator clip slot.

Tip: Twist the ends of the conductor strands so they stay together more easily.

Step 3: Insert clip and wire into crimper slot

Insert the loop + conductor into the slot on your crimper that matches the size of the loop.

Step 4: Crimp the connection

Firmly squeeze the handle of the crimper to press the loop closed around the conductor. Many crimper designs will not open back up until you have squeezed far enough -- if the crimper won't open, keep squeezing until it does.

Tip: You can squeeze harder if you grip toward the ends of the handles.

Tip: If you really need the crimper to open early, there is usually a small release latch inside the handle.

Step 5: Crimp both sides

To ensure the fit is good on all sides, rotate the connector 90 degrees, and squeeze the handle closed again.

Step 6: Complete alligator clip crimping

The alligator head connector should now be securely attached to your wire!

How To: Prepare Spade Connectors

Follow along with this module to prepare wires with spade connectors

Attaching Spade Connector: Required items and tools

To begin attaching and crimping spade connectors, you will need the following:

  • 16 AWG Wire 16 AWG Wire
  • Wire Cutter / Stripper Wire Cutter / Stripper
  • Uninsulated Clip Crimper Uninsulated Clip Crimper
  • Spade Connectors Spade Connectors
Step 1: Prepare wire for spade connectors

The switch will need to be connected on both ends, so prepare two wire-ends to have connectors crimped on to them. Make sure you have enough length of wire.

Step 2: Expose the conductive core

You will need to expose a small amount of the conductive metal inside the wire on each end. Do this by cutting off a small portion of just the plastic insulation around the wire on both sides.

  • If you need to expose more conductor, use a wire cutter.
  • If you have a wire cutter with gauge holes, find the hole that matches the size of wire you have, place the wire through the hole, and squeeze the handle firmly. Twist the wire back and forth until the insulator is cut, and the conductor slides out smoothly.
  • If you have a wire cutter without gauge holes, place the cutting head where you want to trim to, and cut "around" the outside by squeezing the blade down gently on the outside of the insulator, and rotating the blade and wire back and forth to saw through the insulation without damaging the conductor inside.
  • If you have too much conductor, use a wire cutter to cut off the excess length.
Step 3: Insert conductive core into spade connector

Insert the exposed conductor through the small loop on the back of the spade connector.

Tip: Twist the ends of the conductor strands so they stay together more easily.

Step 4: Insert connector and wire into crimper slot

Insert the loop + conductor into the slot on your crimper that matches the size of the loop.

Step 5: Crimp the connection

Firmly squeeze the handle of the crimper to press the loop closed around the conductor. Many crimper designs will not open back up until you have squeezed far enough -- if the crimper won't open, keep squeezing until it does.

Tip: You can squeeze harder if you grip toward the ends of the handles.

Tip: If you really need the crimper to open early, there is usually a small release latch inside the handle.

Mini Project Mounting Terminal Block (continuation)

Step 1: Mount the terminal block to board

Mount the terminal block to the board if it is not already mounted from the previous step.

Step 2: Attach wire from battery terminal and terminal

Use one wire to connect the battery (use electrical tape) to the first connector (pick a corner) on the terminal block (spade connector to screw terminal).

Step 3: Attach spade connector from terminal to LED

Find the screw terminal directly across from the first one. Use the second wire to connect this terminal (spade connector to screw terminal) to one of the LEDs (alligator clip on the LED's long leg).

Step 4: Attach other spade connector to SAME terminal

Loosen the screw on the terminal slightly. Slide the third wire's spade connector between the screw and the spade from the first one. It's okay to turn it a little to the side if needed.

Re-tighten the terminal screw so it holds both spade connectors down.

Step 5: Attach remaining alligator clip to remaining LED

Attach the remaining end of the third wire to the second LED (alligator clip to LED's long leg).

Step 6: Complete the circuit!

Create the wires (or reuse the wires from the Switches chapter) to finish the rest of the circuit.

Explanation

These two circuits are electrically equivalent. Both are represented by the diagram. The main difference is in how the three-way branch is physically constructed.

In the original version, three alligator clips touching each other form a shared voltage node, since electricity travels freely anywhere along them.

Parallel Circuit (Alligator Clips)

In the block terminal version, the three lines are again electrically connected, but the point of connection is here at the screw terminal.

Parallel Circuit (Spades and Terminal Block)

The two spade connectors are made of metal and touching each other, so they conduct freely between them.

Touching Spade Connectors

The third wire is connected "through" the terminal, since there is a piece of conductor joining each pair of opposite screw terminals.

The terminal block version is much more durable and stable, because the connectors are screwed down onto the block, and the block itself is mounted to the board.

Terminal Block Exposed

Check Your Understanding

Which of the following are reasons to use a terminal block? Select all that apply!
  • To create sturdy electrical connections between ONLY two wires
  • To create sturdy electrical connections between more than two wires
  • To create electrical connections between wires and the board the block is mounted to
  • To centralize and organize wiring
  • To create only series circuits only
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